Editor
(An Appraisal)
At the end of the year that Julie Powell spent cooking every recipe (more or less) from Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” she came to mayonnaise collée. It is a hand-whisked mayonnaise thickened with gelatin — a kind of stiff, salty garnish that was piped decoratively over aspics and the like in Child’s time.
“1961 was a different country, no doubt about it,” Powell wrote in 2003, casting a…
