A grim, wartime mood permeated Ferragamo’s fall show, reinforced by the dim venue with its spare wooden seating, the stirring, processional music, and in the collection, which opened with military green officer coats and then cycled through belted leather trenches and tall, crepe-soled boots.
Thick, trapunto-stitched belts were the dominant and memorable detail, sagging off the hips of heavy, squarish wool coats, hugging the…