A knock on the large unmarked wooden door opposite Lviv’s city hall. A man in a military uniform holding a German-made rifle answers. Password, he demands.
“Slava Ukrayini.” Glory to Ukraine.
“Heroy am slava,” glory for the heroes, he responds, and opens a passageway hidden behind a wall of books.
The man in the uniform is not a guard. He is the maître d at Kryivka, a popular theme restaurant that evokes Ukraine’s armed fight for…